In search of grizzlies with Canada’s bear whisperer

British Columbia’s remote Cariboo mountains are jam-packed with grizzly bears. Lizzie Pook checks into a new ‘glampsite’ which brings guests nose-to-nose with the creatures.

As Gary points the bow of the boat downstream, the
storm-streaked valley opens up around us, mist clinging to its every ripple and
crag. “There
are a lot of animals stuffed into this valley, here,” he says, the words
spiriting away on the wind that whips around us. “Some of them are easy to get
along with, some of them not. We’ll come across aggressive animals, so just do
what I say.”

A huge golden eagle swoops by, its wings silhouetted
against the towering Douglas firs that peer down onto the river. Beavers slap
their tails as we pass and the haunting screech of stellar jays fills the air.
Suddenly, to our right, a crash, and I turn to see a huge grizzly launching
itself into the river.

“That’s Homer,” Gary whispers, as the beast tears
through the water in front of us, his almost-black body like a small ship
motoring past. He emerges the other side bedraggled, his size still mighty as
he crashes off into the reeds. 

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