Cambodia’s original seaside town of Sihanoukville may be disappearing in a cloud of construction, but writer Chris Watts find that this nation still has some of the region’s best tropical beaches.
Why Cambodia? A friend asked me this before I left London. And when I arrive in Sihanoukville, while looking for a lift, I realize I don’t know the answer.
It feels safe but sanitized: It’s certainly not the Asian ‘wild west’ I was expecting from Cambodia’s most popular seaside city, its quiet roads scattered with tour groups. I spot a tuk-tuk driver, lounging in a hammock slung over his tiger-print seats. Rows of tricycles line the road behind him, and the drivers play cards and wait for business that doesn’t arrive anymore.
“You want girls, drugs, overnight trip to Siam Reap?” Chaay, the driver, asks me, searching for something to sell. I politely refuse all three but agree to a ride. “We like many travelers,” he continues. “They explore Khmer culture, eat our food and ask about our country.” There’s an air of resignation in his voice as he surveys the surrounding rows of new businesses, many of them foreign-owned; at times, Sihanoukville does resemble one big construction site.
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